Donatella Versace steps down as creative director after almost three decades
Donatella Versace has stepped down as creative director of Versace. (Reuters: Danny Moloshok)
In short:
Donatella Versace is stepping down as creative director of luxury fashion house Versace.
She will be replaced by Dario Vitale, who has worked for Miu Miu since 2010.
The change has fanned talk of a sale of Versace to rival Italian fashion house Prada.
Haute couture stalwart Donatella Versace has been replaced as creative director of the luxury fashion house Versace.
She will be replaced by Dario Vitale, who most recently was design director at Miu Miu, with his appointment effective on April 1.
It marks the first time in the brand's 47-year history that it will be led by someone without the Versace surname.
Versace welcomed Vitale to the role, emphasising in a statement that "championing the next generation of designers has always been important to me".
"I am thrilled that Dario Vitale will be joining us, and excited to see Versace through new eyes," she said.
"I want to thank my incredible design team and all the employees at Versace that I have had the privilege of working with for over three decades."
The matriarch said she would take on a new role as chief brand ambassador and "will remain Versace's most passionate supporter".
Donatella Versace walked the stage at what would be her last fashion show as creative director in February. (Reuters: Alessandro Garofalo)
The creative shift comes amid speculation that Prada Group is in talks to buy Versace from Capri Holdings, which paid 2 billion euros for the fashion house in 2018.
The US group also owns Michael Kors and Jimmy Choo.
Miuccia Prada — the head of Prada Group — acknowledged interest in the brand on the sidelines of Milan Fashion Week last month, while Versace made no comment at what was to be her last runway show.
Versace symbolically wore a vintage jacket that Gianni made for her in 1992, inspired by the powerful Miss S&M collection.
Capri Holding's statement made no mention of any plans to sell Versace, but the arrival of a designer from Miu Miu — a brand also owned by Prada Group — is only likely to fuel speculation of a possible deal.
Donatella's legacy
Versace was thrust into the role of creative director in 1997 after her brother Gianni Versace's murder in Miami.
"It has been the greatest honour of my life to carry on my brother Gianni's legacy," she said.
"He was the true genius, but I hope I have some of his spirit and tenacity."
As the fashion house lead, she brought a boldness that led to some iconic runway and red carpet moments.
The bodysuit synonymous with Taylor Swift's iconic Eras Tour was a Versace design. (Reuters: Christine Olsson/TT News Agency)
On the 20th anniversary of Gianni's death, Donatella created a healing tribute that featured supermodels he helped elevate.
Under Donatella, Versace became synonymous with the power woman she herself projected, despite periods of self-doubt.
"I asked why I took so long to find my way," she told reporters ahead of the anniversary show.
"The first few years I wasn't sure of myself. I made mistakes. But you learn from your mistakes."
Jennifer Lopez wore a reimagined version of her 2000 Grammy Awards jungle dress during the Versace Spring/Summer 2020 catwalk. (Reuters: Alessandro Garofalo)
Versace received an outpouring of love and support on social media from younger designers she championed over the years, including Roberto Cavalli creative director Fausto Puglisi and former Valentino designer Pierpaolo Piccioli.
"I hope I've made you proud so far," Versace wrote in a post celebrating her and Gianni's creations and moments from across Versace's nearly 50 years.
Looking ahead
Versace CEO John D Idol said in a statement the creative shift was "part of a thoughtful succession plan for Versace".
He called Vitale a "strong leader", and expressed confidence that "his talent and vision will be instrumental to Versace's future growth".
As chief brand ambassador, Versace "will continue to champion the Versace brand and its values", Idol said.
Versace represented 20 per cent of Capri Holdings with 2024 revenue of 5.2 billion euros.
Capri recently laid out strategic plans to rebalance the Versace portfolio to return the brand to its more daring roots, increase sales of accessories and win back entry-level consumers put off by a post-pandemic focus on higher net-worth clients.
During the presentation, Idol acknowledged that Versace had recently struggled in menswear "where the historical … customer was used to us being very, very loud. And we've gone much quieter."
Versace's loud designs will be a departure from the preppy Miu Miu style Vitale has worked with for more than a decade. (Reuters: Stephane Mahe)
Coming across from Miu Miu, where he has worked since 2010, Vitale will be tasked with appealing to a new customer base.
"Versace and Miu Miu are very different brands and have very different customers," said Federico Giglio, chief executive of Giglio.com, an Italy-based retailer.
The Miu Miu customer likes more detail, a classy look, while remaining playful, whereas the Versace woman has a brasher and sexy style, he added.
"A good designer, however, knows how to identify with the DNA of the company and add his personal touch," he said.
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